1. Get your camera out of your hands and onto a tripod, not just any tripod either. Using a cheap flimsy tripod is a recipe for camera shake, the shutter of the camera can be enough to cause a vibration in a flimsy tripod. Although they aren't cheap do yourself a favour and invest once in a sturdy tripod such as those by Manfrotto and Gitzo.
2. Shoot with a low ISO. Contrary to what may first make sense when shooting in low light with a tripod don't jack up the ISO, simply use a longer shutter speed. By increasing the ISO you will increase noise, this particularly becomes an issue in long exposure photos so set your ISO nice and low.
3. Use neutral density filters. Sometimes there are occasions when you may wish to create the effect of a long exposure such a swirling water or streaking clouds yet there is too much light to facilitate the exposure time you desire. First of all you can lower your ISO and stop down your aperture however this may not be enough. If that's the case call upon ND filters which basically act as sunglasses for your camera, allowing less light in, thus increasing exposure time. ND filters are available in a range of strengths so choose a couple that will suit your desired results.
4. Film is great for long exposure photography as it doesn't build the noise that digital sensors do, if shooting film however you must be aware of a trait known as reciprocity failure. Essentially it is a phenomenon whereby films sensitivity to light changes with exposure time. The easiest option for dealing with this is to find a "reciprocity chart" for the specific film you are using and refer to this when calculating exposure times.
5. Carry a torch! Often when shooting long exposure photos it will be dark or getting dark, I can't tell you how many times I've forgotten a torch and had to fumble around as darkness fell. A torch is so handy to keep in your bag for such occasions.
2. Shoot with a low ISO. Contrary to what may first make sense when shooting in low light with a tripod don't jack up the ISO, simply use a longer shutter speed. By increasing the ISO you will increase noise, this particularly becomes an issue in long exposure photos so set your ISO nice and low.
3. Use neutral density filters. Sometimes there are occasions when you may wish to create the effect of a long exposure such a swirling water or streaking clouds yet there is too much light to facilitate the exposure time you desire. First of all you can lower your ISO and stop down your aperture however this may not be enough. If that's the case call upon ND filters which basically act as sunglasses for your camera, allowing less light in, thus increasing exposure time. ND filters are available in a range of strengths so choose a couple that will suit your desired results.
4. Film is great for long exposure photography as it doesn't build the noise that digital sensors do, if shooting film however you must be aware of a trait known as reciprocity failure. Essentially it is a phenomenon whereby films sensitivity to light changes with exposure time. The easiest option for dealing with this is to find a "reciprocity chart" for the specific film you are using and refer to this when calculating exposure times.
5. Carry a torch! Often when shooting long exposure photos it will be dark or getting dark, I can't tell you how many times I've forgotten a torch and had to fumble around as darkness fell. A torch is so handy to keep in your bag for such occasions.
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