I use Photoshop as little as I can, I should much prefer to get a picture right in camera so I'm not spending time for every image. The majority of my pictures have been shot around 30 minutes.
A shot taken around mid day, may well be affected by harsh and high sun light. To overcome this I placed my model in the shadows created by the branches of a large palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunshine reflecting soft warm lighting on the front of a model.
I got a light measurement from the models face and shot with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set to daytime.
This image has been shot on my small D2H with a 24mm in order to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal duration set at 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to stress her limbs also therefore we had a great connection with regard to creating great energy and leading.
Notice my own lens/eye level is within the middle of the girl torso, this is important when firing wide perspective and close to your own subject to avoid distortion, for example if you shoot to up high your versions head will probably be big and the girl legs will look like they are quick like a hen and visa versa therefore its crucial that you get your eye/camera lens degree at the proper just the height to prevent distortion,
I will frequently shoot from the lower angle, especially if I am wanting to emphasize the gap of a designs legs for hosiery images.
To keep the sun as blue as possible I photo with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the actual midday sunlight. This is how you continue the sea and the sun blue as well as making my own models skin/tan look good an soft by getting rid of some of the specular reflections on her skin.
In the event that I had been shooting facing much more to the east the sky and the ocean would have been much more burned out there..
When I began shooting digital I stood a lot of problems because I attempted to shoot digital exactly as I shot motion picture. Now any time I am capturing, I will always beneath expose from the meter studying, this is done a couple of of reasons, in order to saturate color as well as to make sure I am not loosing my own high lighting. Obviously my images will be a little on the dark side yet I can easily appropriate for this using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the particular retouching process.
I constantly shoot raw files and a little jpg, the reason why I will explain in another Little Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image data and will bring about much better quality images).
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